Glossary of Industry Terms

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Anti-Pilling: A treatment applied to garments that reduces the formation of fabric balls that appear due to abrasion during wear.

Back Pleats: Tiny folds in the material that flex during use and allow for more room and comfort.

Backing: Backing is the material applied under an embroidery design. Backing is typically cut to match the shape of the embrodiderd design. Some types of backing can simply be torn away without the use of tools.

Box Pleat: A uniform fold in the center back of a garment that allows more room and comfort.

Chambray: Dress fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.

Colorfast: Refers to the durability of the color of a garment or the decoration. A colorfast garment with an embroidery or printed design will usually be resistant to fading when exposed to the sun, washing, and abraision.

Combed Cotton: Cotton yarn that has been through a combing process to remove short fibers and straighten longer fibers. This process produces a smooth yarn used in finer garments.

Cord Locks: A stopper on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting inside the garment.

Cotton: The fibers harvested from within the seed pods of a cotton plant. These are between 1/2 and 2 inches long and can be spun into thread that are woven into cotton fabrics.

Digitize: The translation of a graphic such as a JPEG into the format needed by an embroidery machine to stitch on fabric. This translation is performed by a experienced digitizer usually using a computerized digitizing system.

Double Needle Stitched: A finish used on a sleeve or bottom hem which uses two needles to create rows of visible stitching. This process gives the garment a clean finished look and is quite durable.

Drop Needle: A knit fabric that contains vertical lines within the cloth.

DTG Printing (Direct To Garment): A modern process used to print designs on fabric. A typical DTG system is very similar to an ink jet printer used in a home office.

Dyed-To-Match: Refers to buttons that are the same color as the garment.

Embroidery: Is the process of decorating fabric with a design formed by applying stitches of thread.

End-on-End: A 2 ply weave of colored yarns that run parallel next to each other so that both colors are visible in the garment.

Enzyme Washed: A washing process in which a chemical substance is added to create fabric with a very soft finish and smooth surface features. This process also reduces shrinkage of the fabric.

Extended Tail: The back portion of the garment is longer than the front. This "tail" helps to keep the garment tucked in during normal activity.

Herringbone: A zig-zag pattern, knit into fabric.

Horn Buttons: Buttons that appear to be manufactured from natural horn.

Houndstooth: A broken check pattern that is knit into the fabric.

Interlock Knit: A fabric with two-ply knit combined to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, and has the same appearance and feel on both sides.

Jacquard Knit: A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process.

Jersey Knit Fabric with a definite smooth side (outside), and a textured side (inside).

Locker Loop: The loop of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook.

Locker Patch: An oval shaped panel sewn to the inside back portion of a garment (just under the collar seam), to reinforce the garment. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Mesh: Similar to a pique, but with a more open texture for increased breathability.

Micro Fleece: A high density, anti-pilling fleece constructed from knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece garment. This type of fabric is very warm and light.

Microfiber: This fabric is tightly woven from fine polyester thread and has a sueded finish for a soft feel. Microfiber fabric is usually water resistant due to its construction process and when specially treated.

Micro-Stripe: An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.

Oxford: A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended synthetic fibers.

Pearlized Buttons: Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Pique Knit A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birds nest or waffle weave.

Placket: The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together usually with buttons.

Poly-filled: A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining.

Poplin: A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Raglan Sleeves: Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.

Reverse Placket: The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together which is reversed for women’s garments.

Rib Knit: A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory".

Side Vents Slits: found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.

Stonewashed: A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.

Storm Flap: A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture.

Tencel: A fabric made from the fiber found in wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate fabric.

Twill: A fabric with micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.

Ultra Cool: A fabric that is designed to wick away moisture from the body.

Underarm Grommets: Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.

Weight: The weight of fabrics is expresses in terms of ounces per square yard of fabric. Generally speaking the average weight of apparel used for embroidery is between 5 and 8 ounces, however this can and does vary depending on th fabric.

Yoke Back: The piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Related Links

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